Found on Reddit — not sure who this car belongs to, but I’ll have more if I can get the data.
Yet another coyote swap into a new edge — This is Tanner’s first start video:
And apparently he’s been driving the car for quite some time:
I’d say the car has a more than healthy sound! Looking forward to more data on this one.
Things are coming together in the engine bay.
I’ve sold a couple of tachometer connectors to people doing swaps into New Edge cars. The instructions are kind of rough, but the part is unique — If you have a New Edge car and you’re wondering what to do to get your tach working, contact me. More news to come here for sure.
Matthew Overbeek and I are possibly going to tear my car down this winter and document, document, document. I’d like to come away with a working swap manual (and service manual). If this interests me, please message me and I’ll put you on a list. There are still quite a few parts in the swap that aren’t exactly off the shelf, so we may actually have a kit eventually (that’s the plan).
I’ve been driving the beast back and forth to work and it’s been on quite a few extended runs. There’s no other way to put it, the car sings. I haven’t even tuned it yet and yet it’s got a boat-load of power. I do think I need to do a torque tube and panhard bar — more news there to come I’m sure as well.
His first start video:
Dakota built his own engine as well — can’t wait to see more pictures and video!
Congratulations man, there has got to be so much more from this story and I hope to post as much as possible about this build as time permits.
Latest development — I have the engine cover in place! This took a lot of time and work and of course I had help from my buddy Matthew Overbeek. Matt’s engine bay still sets the record for smooth, IMHO.
To get it to this point, we had to do some bending, sawing and welding (mostly on the cross-tower brace). One of the benefits introduced was to tap the holes for the cross-tower-brace. The rear holes were replaced with welded-in-studs. This means I can pull the cross-tower-brace with a 17mm wrench (just one). Huge improvement.
To get the cover to fit, the hood insulation/sound damper had to be removed. This freed up space over the cover, which is sitting rather close to the hood. Still some painting and cleaning to do, but man does it look sweet. I’m also finishing up a fuse-box (faux) to cover up that unsightly mess-o-wires in the passenger front of the car.
I’ve been too busy for video! I’ll get some of it out on youtube, hopefully today or tomorrow.
I got some terrific footage with the GoPro recently. I did this by holding the camera and driving the car (kinda tricky, as one hand needs to shift, the other hand, steer, and with my third hand, I hold the camera).
Had a great time going to the back to the 50’s show with my Dad — we rode around a lot over the weekend with the top down. The car was quite bouncy, mainly due to the fact that I had the adjustable shock valving on the KYB struts (in the front of the car) set to their maximum stiffness setting :/ … Too bad I didn’t figure this out till Dad was back in Ohio. A small screwdriver and now the car is a lot more civilized.
During the show I had time to do a photo-shoot with Matthew Overbeek’s incredible 94. Here’s the photo album on Imgur:
I’m working on cleaning up the appearance of the engine bay. It’s not a simple operation — but a big portion of the mess is located in the passenger/front corner. Basically the Coyote PCM sits there, and a ton of wires run through that spot. I’ll be using a cheap plastic toolbox there to hide the mess. I’m probably going to use something black and round to cover the hydroboost plumbing in the opposite corner, and leave the fuel regulator on display. The final piece will come later — I’m looking at replacing the stock hood with a Cobra R hood, and that will give me vertical room for the Coyote engine cover.
Interest continues to pick up — more people are attempting Coyote swaps with New Edge cars. Happy Day! Contact me if you’re thinking about this, by the way.
Here’s some footage of the car from about 2 weeks ago. I mounted my GoPro to my head for the video.
I got the car aligned a few days ago. It’s really coming together:
Album of recent pictures for June of 2014.
The car is really drivable. It has an amazing sound. I have some minor tuning to do (mainly want to get a tune that allows the motor to hit its very realistic 7700 RPM red-line. Right now I’m “limited” to “only” 6500 RPM. Now that I have the tach working I feel much more confident winding it to the limit. It has an addictive sound. I’ll get some video of that in the next few weeks.
Ok, so it’s been a slow posting season — you would think with Christmas and the long winter we’ve had that I’d be posting here like a mad-man. It’s not like there wasn’t time — more like there wasn’t bandwidth on my end. Some tight family issues got in the way of progress. Those issues appear to have abated (at least for now and hopefully for a long time).
In the mean time, three more new edge Coyote swaps have come to my attention —
- Skylar Birkhimer: Patterned after TJ Lapinski’s and my car — a 2000 GT convertible. More on that shortly. Sklyar is doing his swap in his own garage and appears to be wasting no time and I have to add — much less money that I did! Pay attention here, we’re going to start breaking down his swap, because I think long term, more people are going to follow his lead.
- Jon Spengler: Another 2000! This time the body is from a v6, with a ton of Kenny Brown goodness rolled into the mix. As a matter of fact, it looks like just about everything that can be Kenny Brown, on this car, is. I have video uploading as I type this that describes the build as it’s happening so far.
- Brian Stokes: Still mostly in the planning stages, this is a 2002 GT (so far). I’ll post more on that when I get more data from Brian.
So, Coyote fans, we have much to be excited about! Swaps out the wazzoo! Wish I had my book done now. I am putting together a swap guide that will (hopefully) incorporate everything I’ve learned — not just from my own swap, but from the general community.
I’ve been driving the car — but I’m far from done. Since the car is so fresh out of the oven I need to make sure that the work I did stays “done” — and that means I need to inspect the car over and under. Over is easy — open the hood. Under, not so easy. Fortunately, I have access to a lift and I can get under the car and look at the work closely. Every bolt that’s been turned as part of the build needs to be closely inspected.
Items I go over in the video but are worth mentioning here are:
- K-member bolts — 4 under the frame and 4 at the back (8 total).
- Exhaust bolts — the stainless exhaust system has 9 bolts per side — 18 total. There are also bolts that hold the hangers in place that need to be inspected.
- Fuel tank bolts — all of the hardware that holds the fuel tank in place needs to be inspected. 3 total.
- Fuel line — go from back to front and make sure that all of the parts are not colliding with things like the exhaust, the rear end and of course the drive shaft.
- Transmission — there are about 6-8 bolts that can be located and checked under the car. The ones near the top of the engine are of course hard to get to.
- Starter motor — while you’re there, there are a couple of bolts for the starter that should be checked. Note — there’s an un-fused power line running to the starter and you need to respect it.
- Alternator (under the engine) fasteners. In my case — one.
- Hydro-boost pump — check the four bolts that hold it in place and the two bolts that hold the bracket to the engine.
- Belt tension.
- Radiator lines.
- Hydroboost lines.
- Visible wiring.
- Tires (the usual stuff — tread, wear patterns, air pressure).
- Brakes (the usual stuff — wear, fluid leaks) and caliper mounting bolts.
Along the way, bring some soap stone (My buddy Dean uses this stuff and showed me the way — Thanks Dean Smith!). As you tighten a bolt or check for tightness, make a mark along the nut or bolt head, such that you can check the alignment of the nut later. The video illustrates how this works. Soap stone does wash off, so it won’t be there forever. It will be there for days though — enough time to get a feel for something if it’s not appropriately tight.