Yet another coyote swap into a new edge — This is Tanner’s first start video:
And apparently he’s been driving the car for quite some time:
I’d say the car has a more than healthy sound! Looking forward to more data on this one.
Here’s some footage of the car from about 2 weeks ago. I mounted my GoPro to my head for the video.
I got the car aligned a few days ago. It’s really coming together:
Album of recent pictures for June of 2014.
The car is really drivable. It has an amazing sound. I have some minor tuning to do (mainly want to get a tune that allows the motor to hit its very realistic 7700 RPM red-line. Right now I’m “limited” to “only” 6500 RPM. Now that I have the tach working I feel much more confident winding it to the limit. It has an addictive sound. I’ll get some video of that in the next few weeks.
I’ve been driving the car — but I’m far from done. Since the car is so fresh out of the oven I need to make sure that the work I did stays “done” — and that means I need to inspect the car over and under. Over is easy — open the hood. Under, not so easy. Fortunately, I have access to a lift and I can get under the car and look at the work closely. Every bolt that’s been turned as part of the build needs to be closely inspected.
Items I go over in the video but are worth mentioning here are:
- K-member bolts — 4 under the frame and 4 at the back (8 total).
- Exhaust bolts — the stainless exhaust system has 9 bolts per side — 18 total. There are also bolts that hold the hangers in place that need to be inspected.
- Fuel tank bolts — all of the hardware that holds the fuel tank in place needs to be inspected. 3 total.
- Fuel line — go from back to front and make sure that all of the parts are not colliding with things like the exhaust, the rear end and of course the drive shaft.
- Transmission — there are about 6-8 bolts that can be located and checked under the car. The ones near the top of the engine are of course hard to get to.
- Starter motor — while you’re there, there are a couple of bolts for the starter that should be checked. Note — there’s an un-fused power line running to the starter and you need to respect it.
- Alternator (under the engine) fasteners. In my case — one.
- Hydro-boost pump — check the four bolts that hold it in place and the two bolts that hold the bracket to the engine.
- Belt tension.
- Radiator lines.
- Hydroboost lines.
- Visible wiring.
- Tires (the usual stuff — tread, wear patterns, air pressure).
- Brakes (the usual stuff — wear, fluid leaks) and caliper mounting bolts.
Along the way, bring some soap stone (My buddy Dean uses this stuff and showed me the way — Thanks Dean Smith!). As you tighten a bolt or check for tightness, make a mark along the nut or bolt head, such that you can check the alignment of the nut later. The video illustrates how this works. Soap stone does wash off, so it won’t be there forever. It will be there for days though — enough time to get a feel for something if it’s not appropriately tight.
I wanted the next video posted after first start to be a first drive — but there was a lot to be done (it’s evident if you watch the first start that there’s a lot of road in front of me before a first drive, but I was optimistic).
Still, the sound is pretty amazing. That motor has a wonderful sound and reminds me a bit of my Mach 1 on steroids. The coolant is now in the motor and there don’t appear to be any leaks (hallelujah). The transmission fluid is in the TR3650 and I’ve bolted the shifter into place for hopefully a few years. I have 1 gauge wired (fuel pressure) and the following remain: Water temp, trans temp, diff temp, oil pressure. I also have to wire up the vehicle speed sensor to the speed dial and to the Coyote PCM (and possibly find some way to get the stock electronics to see this output signal as well — since it runs the speedometer). The tach wire needs to be connected as well. I still need to wire the fan up, and the starter wiring is in a temporary (rigged) position. I’m still not happy with the route it takes to get to the starter, so I may end up cutting and re-splicing it. The ground situation to the motor/trans is still in limbo as well, since I don’t like the way it runs as well.
It sounds like a lot, but really we’re in the final stretch here. I’m buttoning things up and the car is quickly coming together. Here are some recent pics of the build for the curious: